Trendsetting Divers That Helped Shape a Category
October 12, 2026 | Eric Goldfisher
Ask a room full of watch collectors what their favorite style of watch is and you’re likely to get a plethora of “dive watches” or “divers” as your answer. What started out as purpose-built tools slowly turned into one of the most popular watch styles for all of someone's wet and dry activities. Today, most dive watches are instantly recognizable with rotating bezels, oversized luminous markers, high-contrast dials, overbuilt cases, and 200 to 300M of water resistance at a minimum. However, these tried-and-true features didn't arrive all at once.
Jones & Horan’s 2026 Fall Featured Auction brings together four vintage divers that show how the category evolved across four decades. From the oversized luminous markers of an early Eterna KonTiki to the bold, fully luminous Night Diver dial, each helped define the look and feel of today’s modern dive watch.
Lot 296: Eterna Eterna-Matic KonTiki Ref. 130T Est. $1,500 - $2,500 Before dive watches had a formula to follow, watches like the Eterna-Matic KonTiki were helping establish a visual language that was easy to read both in and out of the water. Introduced in 1958 and named for Thor Heyerdahl's famous expedition across the Pacific, the original KonTiki featured enormous luminous triangular markers that would become a hallmark for the brand. Oversized luminous plots are now commonplace on dive watches.
This particular example is the type of KonTiki collectors are looking to find: reference 130T with an original black dial, large radium-filled triangular markers, long chamfered lugs, and the perfectly symmetrical no-date configuration. At 37mm, it also provides a nice wrist presence without feeling gigantic like modern divers from Omega and Rolex. The beautifully aged lume and classic dial layout make this an excellent example of why the first-generation KonTiki is coveted by collectors. View Lot 296
Lot 345: Bulova Snorkel 666 "Devil Diver" Est. $450 - $800
By the 1960s and '70s, the formula was established and manufacturers could try to have fun with some experimentation. Few did that better than Bulova. With a 666-foot WR rating, they earned the "Devil Diver" nickname which makes their models feel devious without any actual satanic influence. Bulova has since come to embrace this nickname with their modern reinterpretations.
The Bulova Snorkel 666 in this auction is the perfect “Devil Diver” with a modern 41mm stainless steel case, black crosshair dial, luminous pip indices, and bakelite bezel. It’s mounted on a collector’s favorite J.B. Champion bracelet to give vintage fans the total package. It offers an ideal combination of wearable size, distinctive styling, mechanical movement, and fun nickname that is a great entry into vintage for collectors who normally prefer modern pieces.
Est. $400 - $700
Outside of the Rolex Submariner, Seiko has probably best demonstrated how successful purpose-built dive-watch designs can become. Originally introduced in 1976, their “Turtle” continued the evolution of Seiko's professional divers with an iconic cushion-shaped case that is behind the nickname. The highly legible dial, substantial rotating bezel, four-o'clock crown, and rounded case made the watch rugged while remaining comfortable for daily wear. This style hasn’t just been influential within Seiko's own dive-watch family, but with the watch industry as a whole.
This is a wonderful example of the 6309-7049, complete with its black dial, tritium luminous markers, day-date display, original Z22 rubber strap, and automatic caliber 6309A. The 44mm case sounds substantial but is easily wearable due to a shorter lug-to-lug width and rounded case flanks. Collectors love the Turtle because it’s peak Seiko firing on all cylinders. No matter where you are on your own watch collecting journey, chances are you’ll have owned or will own a Seiko diver.
Est. $400 - $700 In the 1980s, quartz movements were allowing manufacturers to build sleeker cases with higher depth ratings and advancements in materials were letting imaginations run free. Heuer/TAG Heuer took the ball and ran with their Professional series, giving collectors a wild assortment of designs, case coatings, and dials.
One of the most distinctive ideas to emerge from that period was their Night Diver. Instead of simply adding lume to the hour markers, the watch featured a fully luminous dial. This gave maximum visibility under water and was a fun party trick for anyone daring enough to take the plunge and buy one for themself. TAG continues to include this style of diver with every generation of modern Aquaracer.
This Night Diver, ref 929.113G, features a popular 39mm case size with a unidirectional bezel, bracelet, quartz movement, and original luminous dial with contrasting black indices. I love that this is an plain steel case, allowing collectors to enjoy a watch without having to worry about needing to baby a fragile coating from that period.
If you haven’t bid with Jones & Horan yet, one of these trendsetting divers might be the perfect way to get your feet wet. They’re fun, affordable, and make a great entry into the world of vintage watches. Don’t let them pass you by, our Fall Featured Auction is open for bids now and runs through October 22, 2026, with the live close beginning at 11 AM ET. As always, we're happy to set up an appointment for anyone looking to preview lots in person at our NH headquarters before the auction closes, simply send us an email at auctions@jones-horan.com and we'll handle the rest. We'll also be exhibiting at Windup Watch Fair NYC from October 16–18, where we'll have a great assortment of watches to purchase on-site plus selected pieces from the Fall Featured Auction available to preview in person.
Thinking about consigning? We are always accepting quality material for future auctions. Contact our team to see how you can get your material placed in our upcoming Holiday Spectacular this December.
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